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Slow Ride
08-17-2006, 08:07 AM
I have a problem with my damn S-10 Blazer. The brakes are not confidence inspiring to say the least, yet the front rotors are hot as hell after a longer drive. I came home from the drag strip where they had a hard time slowing the car down from only 110 to hit the return road and then on the drive home the pedal was high and hard. I only touched the brake a few times the whole way home, but they were glowing a dull red after the drive. What is going on here?

The setup is mostly stock. Stock manual master cylinder, with stock pushrod and stock pedal. The prop valve is a new factory replacement. The front rotors are stock with SSBC Force 10 calipers. The rears are 11x2 ford drums. I have Earls stainless brake hoses as well. I also have a Wilwood adjustable prop valve in the rear line.

Hear is how I have it plumbed...
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g163/slowride454/DSCN0327.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g163/slowride454/DSCN0321.jpg
do I have the ports mixed up? Is the residual valve on the front brakes possibly? That would definately cause a problem.
BLUE66
08-17-2006, 09:40 AM
Mike I will look at mine tonight, I have the same master and proportioning valve, which has worked great on my chevelle. If they are switched front to rear, that would definately cause your problems.
superjeep
08-17-2006, 09:54 AM
You should put some drilled rotors on to let some heat out when brakes are being beat.
1SLO5.0
08-17-2006, 12:31 PM
When you run a factory proportioning valve with an aftermarket adjustable unit don't you have to make a modification on the factory valve if you are going to retain it? I know on Mustangs you do. I don't run a factory valve at all. I use my line lock as a T for the front breaks and then the other line runs directly to the rear. Mine is probably messed up too though. I can't stop my car at the end of the track either. Other people stop without a problem. I think both of us need to go to the brake shop.
badass88gt
08-17-2006, 03:55 PM
You should put some drilled rotors on to let some heat out when brakes are being beat.


All those holes do is provide a place for cracks to start. And lighten your wallet.
Slow Ride
08-17-2006, 06:59 PM
Looks like double dumb-ass on me. I have the ports mixed up on the output side of the combination valve. I wonder how much ET and mph I lost with the front brakes being hung up? Also might contribute to the damn blazer overheating and why the converter was slipping 800rpm at the big end. Time to re-plumb and then R&R the wheel bearings.
1SLO5.0
08-17-2006, 07:51 PM
Looks like double dumb-ass on me. I have the ports mixed up on the output side of the combination valve. I wonder how much ET and mph I lost with the front brakes being hung up? Also might contribute to the damn blazer overheating and why the converter was slipping 800rpm at the big end. Time to re-plumb and then R&R the wheel bearings.


Does it stop without touching the brake pedal? I bet it did slow you down alot. That stuff happens Mike. Just fix it and move on. At least you didn't shove a sawzall thru the side of the truck......3 times....
YAV8
08-17-2006, 10:04 PM
Does it stop without touching the brake pedal? I bet it did slow you down alot. That stuff happens Mike. Just fix it and move on. At least you didn't shove a sawzall thru the side of the truck......3 times....
Boy I sure am glad that I am a GM guy. You ford guys sound like a scarrie bunch. The GM guys would have learned after the first time. 3 times with a sawzall??????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????? To bad you couldn"t have made it Darrel. I had a good time and glad to see the huge turn out. I did't get in the gamblers because the 92 s-10 is so hard to find the spot on the tree. I should have brought the YAV8 to the gun fight.
badass88gt
08-17-2006, 10:05 PM
or put your head gaskets on backw.......

oops. nevermind.
highschool 69
08-17-2006, 10:11 PM
or put your head gaskets on backw.......

oops. nevermind.


You'll have that.
badass88gt
08-18-2006, 02:00 AM
Not me. That was me taking an unprovoked cheap shot at a buddy.
Wicked
08-18-2006, 07:17 AM
All those holes do is provide a place for cracks to start. And lighten your wallet.

--only on an improper setup.
badass88gt
08-18-2006, 07:24 AM
There were a couple road course guys on another site that tested the drilled, slotted, drilled/slotted, and regular rotors. They couldnt find any benefits from decreased stopping distance. I have never seen a documented benefit from them over a quality full face vented rotor.
UPdragracer
08-18-2006, 07:47 AM
also make sure you have free play at the brake pedal too!!
I had a reman master cylinder on my RV that had none . I had to shorten the master cylinder push rod quite a bit .
I was bangin my head on that one for awhile I replaced hoses and calipers thinking they were hanging up and all it was , was the damn brakes were ever so slightly applied all the time .

I have had the same problem with a few fords in the past {they have a adjustable push rod } this was a mopar and I had to actually cut the rod to shorten it 3/16th of an inch to get freeplay :wall:
Slow Ride
08-19-2006, 07:23 AM
Well the plumbing problems weren't the only issue. I am going to check pushrod endplay. I might even try a set of stock calipers. Could underhood heat be contributing to the problem. I just seems as though the problem gets worse when the engine gets hot (over 200). Or they are unrelated and just both overheat within a mile or so of driving.

More updates when I get home from work
Jim
08-19-2006, 09:45 AM
or put your head gaskets on backw.......

oops. nevermind.

hey now!!!!



...........at least i don't sleep with my si.... :D
1fastdeuce
08-19-2006, 11:35 AM
hey now!!!!



...........at least i don't sleep with my si.... :D
:owned:
Slow Ride
08-19-2006, 09:38 PM
I checked the pushrod endplay and it is fine. I took the wheels off and you can spin the rotors even after pushing the brake pedal and letting it return, so no residual pressure. I redid the brake lines from the tee to the brake hoses, going under the frame, away from the headers. I started to make up a heat shield, but ran out of daylight.

You should see the red plastic plugs in my wheels. They are all shriveled up and melted to the wheels.
STL2SLO
08-19-2006, 09:41 PM
Did you get a chance to drive it and see if it made a difference?
Slow Ride
08-19-2006, 09:43 PM
Not yet. Still have to bleed them and think about making up a heat shield.

Menard's can suck my balls. I still don't have my damn trusses.
STL2SLO
08-19-2006, 09:47 PM
I tried to call and no answer so I got someone else to go tomorrow. Hopefully you can get it built in a reasonable amount of time now.
Slow Ride
08-22-2006, 10:24 AM
Hey guys, I'm not completely nuts!!!

I called up SSBC today for technical support and they said to send the calipers back to Summit, because they don't even offer them anymore due to the same problems I've been having.

I'm going to get some stockers so I can drive it, and send those damn things back.
bohn
08-22-2006, 10:31 AM
Hey guys, I'm not completely nuts!!!



:nono: Some people may beg to differ on that.
BLUE66
08-22-2006, 10:40 AM
Hey guys, I'm not completely nuts!!!

I called up SSBC today for technical support and they said to send the calipers back to Summit, because they don't even offer them anymore due to the same problems I've been having.

I'm going to get some stokers so I can drive it, and send those damn things back.


Unreal, all those fancy parts, and all those problems!!
1SLO5.0
08-22-2006, 12:31 PM
Well that's good to hear Mike.
Slow Ride
08-22-2006, 08:42 PM
I bolted on a new set of stock calipers and they seem to be better, but still hang a little on the rotors. Does anyone make a return spring for this type of caliper?

The only thing I have not replaced with brand new parts is the master cylinder, I wonder if that might help. Even when I really pull up on the pedal the front brakes do not spin as freely as my other cars.
1fastdeuce
08-22-2006, 08:52 PM
Mine drag also so if you figure it out I would appreciate the outcome of your findings.
Slow Ride
08-22-2006, 09:45 PM
http://www.bowlinggreencustoms.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=16&cat=84&page=1

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19406&highlight=brake+caliper+drag

hmmm....
STL2SLO
08-23-2006, 05:45 AM
Thats different. Are you going to RSD on Fri? It should be quicker without the brakes on the whole way!
Slow Ride
08-23-2006, 07:37 AM
Thats different. Are you going to RSD on Fri? It should be quicker without the brakes on the whole way!

I'm going to try and make it. Still have a few thing to sort out.
UPdragracer
08-23-2006, 07:45 AM
I bolted on a new set of stock calipers and they seem to be better, but still hang a little on the rotors. Does anyone make a return spring for this type of caliper?

The only thing I have not replaced with brand new parts is the master cylinder, I wonder if that might help. Even when I really pull up on the pedal the front brakes do not spin as freely as my other cars.

shorten the rod to the master 1/8th inch or put 2 washers behind the master to mount it out farther .
also new pads always drag the square cut seal on the caliper piston is what returns the piston . once the pads wear about 20% the square cut seal moves better . also make sure all the pins and bushings move freely by hand .
If you have to put thinner o-rings in the caliper bushing holes to reduce drag on the mounting pins .
I have even enlarged the return hole in the master cylinder to let brake pressure off more effectivly when the peddle is released :hello: