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superjeep
08-13-2006, 03:59 PM
I heard that it's bad to run full synthetic in a freshly rebuilt engine? Is this true? I thought synthetic gave top protection?

68Bowtie
08-13-2006, 04:39 PM
Yes don't break the motor in on synthetic. YOu can switch after its broken in.

superjeep
08-13-2006, 05:31 PM
So when I break in my engine just use some walmart oil or something then switch to a sythetic if I want.

1fastdeuce
08-13-2006, 05:38 PM
So when I break in my engine just use some walmart oil or something then switch to a sythetic if I want.
Yes

badass88gt
08-13-2006, 05:53 PM
I would still use a good quality oil for break in, not WalMart crap.

UPdragracer
08-13-2006, 06:13 PM
:nono: well big controversy here LOL!!! I'm a small engine type builder and mechanic I have years of experience with different types of engines from small 250 cc multi cylinder 2 stroke race engines to 550 hp big cube diesel turbo engines . :stroke:

moly rings in a 2 stroke 10,000 plus rpm engine are broke in in about 1/2 hour of running time . with a proper cylinder finish .

a car engine built for drag racing is way cool with 3 good hard warm up cool off's and some moderate street W.O.T. {not high RPM } runs .
dump the oil after cam break in and some ring seating and dump in the thinnest synthetic oil you can find :wall:

I am a serious believer in thin oil I have been using amsoil 0w40 racing oil for years and it seems to work for me . {drag racing }

on the street a 10w40 would be my choice unless I had a large cube {large rod and main bearing engine } then a 20w50 synthetic would be in it !

don't worry about anything break in the cam at 2500 rpm for a 1/2 hour change oil !!!! {use chaep **** we ain't done yet },

now hit the street with your car and drive it normal {yeah right}!

just don't do high rpm stuff long term .

run the engine under load hard from low rpm to 5000 or so as many times as you can . and let it cool off between times by just cruising

I had access to a engine dyno at one time and this is how I did it on the dyno . {the most fun I ever had } I was able to see when a engine broke in and was making it's power {much sooner than you may think }

contrary to popular belief , loose bearing clearence and thick oil makes power and longevity , NOPE !!!

good oil makes all the difference in having a succesful engine . a nice fine 800 grit cylinder finish moly rings and tight bearing clearences with thin oil rules in my book . :angel:

68Bowtie
08-13-2006, 06:18 PM
Use 30 weight oil like valvoline and put some gm EOS engine treatment in. On the chevelle site there are thousands of members there and everyone says use the eos gm treatment, its like $6 a bottle. After breakin change oil and put what your going to run in. I heard that comp cams is acually telling ppl to use diesel oil like rotella or like what i run chevron. All your regular oil there taking the zinc out and for a mechanical cam like i have its important. The chevron also has a good amount of moly in it. A lot of the chevelle guys thats all they use.

UPdragracer
08-13-2006, 06:34 PM
Use 30 weight oil like valvoline and put some gm EOS engine treatment in. On the chevelle site there are thousands of members there and everyone says use the eos gm treatment, its like $6 a bottle. After breakin change oil and put what your going to run in. I heard that comp cams is acually telling ppl to use diesel oil like rotella or like what i run chevron. All your regular oil there taking the zinc out and for a mechanical cam like i have its important. The chevron also has a good amount of moly in it. A lot of the chevelle guys thats all they use.

Yes some of the new diesel oils are very good {they are now under a lot of emmision scrutiny like the cars where in the 70's and they are under a big pinch } big diesel technology now is ia really good place to watch for performance tech for us little guy's . there is a ton of $$$ going into this stuff now to find more power and less emmissions :wall:

superjeep
08-13-2006, 10:29 PM
All right.

toomanyirons
08-14-2006, 01:28 AM
Just broke a motor(in) using rottela allong with gm EOS break in lube. Long story short, Had water leakage into oil(intake bolt tapped into water jacket) at high(200+) temp and high(moderately) rpms. After changing intake gaskets twice decided to let a pro figure it out(found bad bolt hole), while pressure checking rest of block and heads found spun rod bearing. Pro said was caused by too soft of bearings and too tight of clearances. Cam looked great(according to pro). So breaking in on rottela and EOS seemed to have worked for cam but did not help soft bearings at higher rpms. The reason I was told to run rottela was that it had a higher zinc?(epa reasons) than most of the other oils.

BTW A different Engine builder locally told me not to put in synthetic until after I had 2500 miles on it. This was after he knew it was going in a circle track car that would not see 2500 miles for 10 years(moron).



Also broke in an old 403 with cheap fleet oil, overheated it drastically on break in(and numerous times since) switched to synthetic right after 1/2 hour break in and can't(knock on wood) kill motor now.

WHEN YOUR NOT GOOD IT PAYS TO BE LUCKY;)