motor mounts

[rscamaro_306]

ok i tryed to get my motor mounts off today and i was turing the bolts the right way but theres nuts on the other end that gust keep spining and i cant got to the nuts with any wrench or anything.... i was thinking about gut tack welding all around them so they stay there and dont move... is that a good idea or is there an easer way to get to the nuts... i could use some help and it would be very helpful .... thanks

[1fastdeuce]

What type of motor is this. The only block I can recall seeing a bolt with a nut are mopars and you can get a wrench on them.

[rscamaro_306]

its on a 1991 camaro with a 305.. i think im gust going to tack weld them in there becas i can get to the nuts with a rod on a arc welder.but its a 1991 rs camaro with the 305

[rscamaro_306]

and i might whant to tell u its not on the block its on the frame or subfram i think..somthing like that

[BLUE66]

I am sure there is a way to get to the mounting nuts, you just need to come up with the right combination of tools to do it. Flexible wrenches, sockets, swivel sockets, wobble extension, etc. etc. Just remember if you weld it, when you reassemble the mount the bolt will need to be perfectly lined up or you will cross thread the bolt. It may be easier now, but I think it would be easier to be able to stick the bolt all the way thru the mount and then thread a nut on when it is being installed........................Something to think about.

[Greg86z28]

You could remove your A-arms. Other than that, just rig up the right set of extensions to get the the nuts. I believe the nut size is a M15. Good luck.
-Greg

[Greg86z28]

Found this:

"Sweeet. If you guys are having problems with the motor mount bolts, how do you change spark plugs on a car with all the emissions equipment? Don't answer that, I don't want to know.
Motor mounts on these cars are a cake walk. Supposing you have the engine out already (cause if you didn't why would you be trying to replace the mounts?) its fairly simple. Take a good look at how the mounts were installed by GM. You can do it exactly the same way with the hardware that was originally on the car.

You'll need a wrench, personally I prefer gear wrenches since they are more user friendly, but any old combination wrench will work. Slip the wrench on the top side of the nut/bolt.

For the bottom side, use a socket, a wobble or swivle joint, a 6" extension and a ratchet. A typical universal joint will not work in my experience, getting the right angle to the bolts is impossible without the right tool.

The holes cut in the crossmember for the A-arms allow access to 2 of the 3 bolts, the other can be accessed through another hole in the crossmember. There aren't that many holes, just look through each one with a good shop light till you see the bolts. If you can see them then you can get the tool to them.

Remove each nut and try not to lose the washer between the nut and the crossmember. If you've already removed the nut, you're probably thinking there was never a washer there. It is there... or it was there before it fell into the bottom of the crossmember. Grab yourself a wire coat hanger, straighten it out except for the hook end, bend a nice curve into the long section so you can feed it down in the crossmember, and then scrape all the contents from the bottom of the crossmember to the A-arm opening. Eventually the washers will fall out.

With everything out, the mounts will lift off the crossmember. You can now replace them with OEM pieces or get some aftermarket poly mounts, whatever.

To reinstall the mounts, put the mounts in place on the crossmember, and drop the bolts through from the top, just as they came off. Now we have to figure out a way to get the washers onto the bolts, and hold them there till we get the nut started. Tape, magnets, etc might work ok for you, but for myself I just put two or three drops of super glue on each washer, and glued them to the nut. The glue won't hold forever, in fact it will probably break when the nuts are torqued into place. It will hold the washers to the nuts, so you can just drop the nut into your socket and guide it into place with the extension and ratchet.

When all the nuts and washers are back on the bolts, tighten everything up. Use a torque wrench if you're concerned its going to come apart. If you use the proper torque spec (30lb), you don't need to worry about the mounts coming loose. Consider this, GM's method held together for better then 10 years, why re-engineer it now? There's a right and a wrong way to do every project, and personally I put more faith in GM's selection of hardware and methodology then the corner hardware stores made in China hardware.

The pics I'm attaching show the diagram from the GM manual showing the correct bolt holes for a SBC. The nut is shown but hard to see in the picture is the washer sitting on top of the nut. The procedure for removing and replacing the mounts also refers to the washers. The second pic I'll attach shows the tool that didn't work, and the one that did. Both are craftsman pieces, the one that worked is an impact piece."

[BLUE66]

Ahh, your trying to change the mounts on the car!!!!!!!
Well, he pretty much took car of it above. You just gotta do whatever is needed to get the job done.

[rscamaro_306]

hey thanks for the info that help a lot .... i was gust going to put little welds on it but ill try the ^^^^ that first and if i realy have to i will take the a arm out but i realy dont whant to so all that for motor mounts ..... thanks agean

[Greg86z28]

hey thanks for the info that help a lot .... i was gust going to put little welds on it but ill try the ^^^^ that first and if i realy have to i will take the a arm out but i realy dont whant to so all that for motor mounts ..... thanks agean

I would avoid taking out the a arms because installing the springs will be difficult. Getting my sportlines in was difficult and they are much smaller than the stock springs. I know people always say "use spring compressers" but I have yet to find one that fits and works right. All of the ones from autozone and advance auto wont fit through the hole in the bottom of the a arm.

[Nick]

The snap on spring compressor works great.

Replacing motor mounts is these cars is a bitch and a half. Well it seemed like it when i was 14 swapping in the 350 instead of my v6 in my old sportcoupe.

Instead of replacing the entire mount, all i do now is take the lower bolt off of the clamsheel and pry it up ( the clamshell is made of two pieces of stamped steel). Then i just pop the bad rubber out and new rubber in. Re-install the bottom bolts. Easy as that. I can do my motor mounts in less that a half an hour now.

[rscamaro_306]

realy ...... is that ok to do. it wont mess up the mount i think ill try that and if id dosent work ill gust take the hole mount off

[Greg86z28]

realy ...... is that ok to do. it wont mess up the mount i think ill try that and if id dosent work ill gust take the hole mount off

I wouldn't see why it would be bad? I doubt your 305 is going to break that steel. :thumbs_up

[rscamaro_306]

lol.... ya never know... the way im going to beat it...as soon as i get my parts in and the motor all together im going to drive it like a bat out of hell.... wel maybe not that bad i still have a ticket to pay off. but i dont think i am going to break it eather...cant wate.....gust got the main part in and put it on know the rebuild can start and maybe ill have the motor in this weekend... i hope.

[Greg86z28]

I hope to have my car done the week after I get out of school. Shoot some pictures of your progress to me at greg.marsicek@gmail.com
Later
-Greg

[rscamaro_306]

ill try to get some pics.... gust got the timing chane in but i need to rotate the crank to line it up to 0 and the crank wont turn... its pissing me off and i dont whant to brack the bolt off in the crank.... but other than that i need longer push rods to make up for the diff cam and smaller lifters.... do u know anywhere i could get some longer ones.... it only needs to be like ____ that much longer if that... i dont have the mesurment becas i dont know how to realy meshur it and that is a gestamate but its close to that..but yea ill tack some pics and post them up...

[1fastdeuce]

You wouldn't happen to also be known as 4cefed would you. If not did you two happen to go to the same school? :confused: :confused:

[rscamaro_306]

4cefed........ um no..... dose he go to point high school...... dose he have a name.... na thats not me sory... wy?

[Greg86z28]

You should type everything in Microsoft Word and check it for mistakes and then copy and paste here. You just have spelling mistakes once in awhile making it difficult to read :D

[rscamaro_306]

oh.... sorry ill try harder to typ better.... iv been told that but its gust to much work to do that... ill gust try to not be in a hury and typ slow..

[YAV8]

ill try to get some pics.... gust got the timing chane in but i need to rotate the crank to line it up to 0 and the crank wont turn... its pissing me off and i dont whant to brack the bolt off in the crank.... but other than that i need longer push rods to make up for the diff cam and smaller lifters.... do u know anywhere i could get some longer ones.... it only needs to be like ____ that much longer if that... i dont have the mesurment becas i dont know how to realy meshur it and that is a gestamate but its close to that..but yea ill tack some pics and post them up...
I close my eyes and wonder??????????? I THIS FOR REAL

[rscamaro_306]

^^^^^ what are u talking about its real and i was tyerd when i typed that and i now know what push rods to get if u were wandring.. and i got my timing chane all set up and its in gust have to put the cover on and i am half way there.... now im saving up some $$ for a holley 650cfm street legal 4-bbl carb from jegs. with mechanical secondarys and a clearview fuel filter... any one know if its a good carb or not im betting its good ... its a holley and they make good parts.
-jake

[Greg86z28]

First, you need to start using proper grammer when you type, even if it takes you 5 minutes extra. It's really hard to read and understand what your problem is.

Second, you can buy a pushrod tool to check what length your pushrods should be. I'm pretty sure it looks just like a pushrod and it screws and unscrews to make it shorter and longer. Is that correct YAV8?

[Greg86z28]

Also, I don't think it can be a good thing if you are unable to turn your crank. But I'm not sure.

[rscamaro_306]

ok i got my crank to turn it was gust stuck on a tire i was resting it on... and i know what length i need for the push rods... i gust got to get the rods made for flat tappet lifters and not roller lifters .. the roller lifters are the stock ones in there right now.and i have a flat tappet cam and lifter set up now so yea thats fixed. so i have every thing sorted out all i need to do is type better and use proper grammer. sorry for all the mix ups and miss speeling. have a good night and im going to bed i have school in the morning so do night to you all

[Greg86z28]

I didn't know any thirdgen's had roller lifters stock? I thought roller lifters are better? Later
-Greg

[rscamaro_306]

yea my 305 hade roller lifters but i cant run roller lifters with the cam i have in. its only for flat and if i put roller lifters back in it would wear faster or somthing like that.. but yea amy thirdgen did and i will take a pic tomarow hopfuly to prove it. and to show my progress. well good night
-jake

[lazyass]

its not cool to be lame, did anyone ever tell you that?

[rscamaro_306]

lame..... what the hell are u talking about... how am i lame. pleas tell me becas i dont know what u are talking about. all i am doing is talking to a fellow thirdgen owner about our cars and what we are doing to them... so if thats lame then i must be realy ****en lame!

[Greg86z28]

Good job, spelling and punctuation is improving. Good luck with the motor.
-Greg

[YAV8]

I think the push rods you will need are stock length for a flat tappet cam. You should be able to get them from any shop. The shorter ones were the stock for a roller cam. Be sure to change the fuel pump rod. Thet are hardened for the roller cam and will not work on the cast iron cam you installed.

[lazyass]

not sure if ive ever needed your advice ralph but damn am i glad your on this site!

[1SLO5.0]

Hey lets cut the kid some slack here. He is a young kid and trying to learn. We were all in his shoes at one point in time.

[rscamaro_306]

thanks for the help. i know i need push rods for a flat tappet lifters. but what are u talking about with fuel pump rod. ^^^ like he sead im still lirning but im doing all the work my self and i know enuf to get it done gust with a littil help along the way. but anyways, how much do u guys think push rods and that fuel pump rod will cost. im thinking maybe $120 or is that to low or high. i hope high i still need header gaskets and some sensers. well thatnks for the info and i will keep on worken on my motor so maybe i can meat all of u guys some friday night in point. well the ones that live in point atleast.
-jake

[1fastdeuce]

thanks for the help. i know i need push rods for a flat tappet lifters. but what are u talking about with fuel pump rod. ^^^ like he sead im still lirning but im doing all the work my self and i know enuf to get it done gust with a littil help along the way. but anyways, how much do u guys think push rods and that fuel pump rod will cost. im thinking maybe $120 or is that to low or high. i hope high i still need header gaskets and some sensers. well thatnks for the info and i will keep on worken on my motor so maybe i can meat all of u guys some friday night in point. well the ones that live in point atleast.
-jake
You should be able to find all of that stuff for free. The stock stuff is useless to people that build high performance motors.

[rscamaro_306]

yea. ill look around and see what i can find. but if i cant find the parts will advance auto have them for cheep?

[1fastdeuce]

yea. ill look around and see what i can find. but if i cant find the parts will advance auto have them for cheep?
Realistically the pushrods shouldn't cost anymore then $40 and the fuel pump pushrod is probably no more than $10.

[bohn]

I would think an 86 camaro would have an in tank electric pump.

[bohn]

i still need header gaskets and some sensers. .
-jake

What do you mean by sensors?

[T-Bagger]

i have a few sets of push rods if you want a set i will givem to ya just get a hold of me

[Greg86z28]

His car is a 91 I believe. It's running TBI. I think they had the pumps in the tank? Does all FI cars have a pump in the tank (when they are stock?)

[rscamaro_306]

ok yea i dont need the fuel pump rod i have an electric pump. it was tbi but im chaning it to carb. i know wy would u do that. but i rather have a carb.
and by sensers i mean like block temp senser. and i think there is another one i need but we will see. i am almost ready to put the motor back in. all i need to do is put my motor mounts in. then my freand is bring his cheery picker and we will drop it in. cant wate to hear it start. now all i need to do is save for a carb and it will be done..for now.
-jake

[rscamaro_306]

well got the motor mounts in and my trans mount on in less than half an hour. it was easy. now all i need is push rods, carb, header gaskets, and some fuel lines and sensers. cant wate to drop the old 305 in the camaro.

[YAV8]

One other thing you will need to do is put a fuel filter with a bypass and a regulator for the carb. If you don't you will have to much fuel pressure to the carb. Also some of the GM you will need to have the factory oil pressure hooked up. If not the computer will not tell the fuel pump to run with out oil pressure. Hope this helps. The fuel filter we use mostly is from a MOPAR, it had a extra line running off of it for you return line.

[rscamaro_306]

ok i know i have to use a fuel regulator. but thanks for the tip anyways. i all ready have one, i got a holley fuel presser regulator. but were do i pick up a mopar fuel filter and what do i ask for if its from an auto parts store. and how would i use the stock fuel lines to fuel the carb? do i need new lines and redo all them or can i gust use that filter to bypass them. oh and one more question. what wires can i lose. there is a lot of wires and iv been told i dont need all of it gust a cuple. so on a third-gen what wires can i lose. thanks for the tips and info
-jake

[camaro1]

i bet your holley regulator doesnt have a return line on it, you will need a fuel pressure regulator that is a return style regulator to work with the stock in tank pump

this is the same thing i did with my s-10 to keep the stock pump in the tank and use a carb

this is the one i used from mallory:

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=&categoryId=14185&parentCategoryId=10323

[rscamaro_306]

oh **** your right i dont have a return style. thanks for stoping a pan in my ass later when i try to put it all together. now i need to get a new one. what one did u get with the mallory there is three u can get? im gessing gust the gas on and not the first two but the last one. and is there anything els i would need for my fuel setup befor i buy a carb? thanks for the tips and help
-jake