Somw more 302 questions.

[snowseeker]

Under the intake at the back of the block there is a oil port. It is the port that is the end of the lifter oil jurnals. It is facing up at the intake. Is there sposed to be a plug in this port?

Next question, is a 65 mustang with a 302 sposed to have a rear sump or front or double hump?

Do you guys useing the cork gaskets at the end of the intake? Or are you useing rvt and the cork or just rvt?

If you have two oil dip sticks what do you use to plug one hole?



I have most of the motor together now with all arp. Found out that blue locktight match's ford blue paint perfectly. :D: Just have to finish the intake oil pan and find a frost plug kit and fuel pump ecentric so I can put the timming chain and cover on.

Found out the hard way you have to put the lifters in before you put the heads on. :(: :argh:

Also found out that if the rods are the wrong way they won't bolt up next to eachother on the crank. (guess you can't follow a 68 book for a 85 motor.) :rolleyes:

[jdsgallops]

Yep you should have a plug in the lifter port. I've never seen one unplugged.

65 mustang should have a front sump pan. Since it is a front sump pan you should be using the timing chain cover dipstick hole. Plug the one on the side of the block.
I've never used the cork intake gasket end seals I always RTV them.
Rods should have been numbered. All the Ford small blocks I have pulled apart have always had numbered rods. So it shouldn't have mattered if you were using the 68 manual or not, you should have put the rod in the corrisponding hole and been fine. Anything else just ask.

[snowseeker]

Thanks for the info.

The rods were numbered. But according to the book the number were sposed to be facing out. But the 85 block the numbers were sposed to be facing in. The bearing sits in the rod and cap offset a little. If you look at the crank the edge's of the bearing race are rounded tward the counter balancers. So if you put the rods in with the numbers facing out the rods get pushed tward the center of the race. Than you can't put two rods next to eachother on the same race. lol

[Stud]

Don't use the cork. Go to napa and get "The Right Stuff" It works the best.

[snowseeker]

The right stuff in a can? That stuff is like 25 - 28 dollars a can!!

Also on valve cover gaskets. The gaskets that came in the kit are cork but it looks like there is some kind of rubber in the cork. Anyone ever try these? Are they ok?

[Stud]

The Right Stuff in a caulk gun tube!!
Or in a pressurized bottle.

14 dollars.

[jdsgallops]

Yeah I have used the cork/rubber valve cover gaskets. I didn't notice a difference in sealing between them and any others I used.

[Jim]

Originally posted by Stud
The Right Stuff in a caulk gun tube!!
Or in a pressurized bottle.

14 dollars.

i agree with stud. the last one i bought was the pressureized can, it's like $12

when i put the engine in john's car i plugged the hole in the block. first tapped it then screwed in a brass plug with some "right stuff' around it.

[snowseeker]

Originally doesn't that hole have a frost plug in it? Do you guys put locktight on the frost plugs when you put them in? Or just pound them in? lol