More problems

[Slow Ride]

I can't get the Blazer to run right no matter what I do. Maybe I should just going to park it and see what happens in the spring. I am so pissed right now, you guys have no idea.

I put in a 16" electric fan today to help with the ET's and adjusted the rocker arms. The valve train makes a ton of noise and I can't let the thing sit and idle for more than a minute because it gets too hot. And I mean HOT, can't even touch the hood anywhere HOT.

Are roller rockers supposed to make a bunch of noise? I can't hear the noise when driving because the fuel pump is so loud, but when I stop and get out I can hear it. It's not a ticking, more kind of like a light grinding noise. Could my pushrods be the wrong length? I'm using stock length hardened pushrods, with the ProAction heads. Or do guide plates make all that noise? I want to go to the track tomorrow, but I can't with the thing making all this noise and running so damn hot.

Also - has anyone had a problem with the linkage on a B&M ProStick? I can't get the damn thing to shift the tranny into Neutral. If I get it to go into N then it won't go into Park. Is there something I'm missing? It's not a big deal though compared to the stupid engine problems.

Otherwise the Blazer seems to run ok just taking it around the neighborhood and laying down a few patches to scary the little kids. Didn't really run hot when moving, but I didn't really drive it too much, it was more of a shakedown run. Didn't want to have too far to walk if something broke.

Please help me out guys.:argh:

[1SLO5.0]

The valvetrain noise worries me. With a hydraulic cam you shouldn't have any noise. Readjust the valve and do it by the book to make sure it is done properly. I don't know what to tell you about your cooling problem. What kind of fan is it? Cheap fans suck. If it is a cheap fan, throw it in the garbage.

[Slow Ride]

It's the same one Red is using I believe. Imperial 16" - it moves alot of air.

I did the valves by the book - IOEC - zero lash plus 1/2 of a turn.

[1SLO5.0]

Exhaust valve starts to open - Intake valve will be on the base circle (you can adjust the intake valve)

Intake valve starts to close - Exhaust valve is on the base circle (you can adjust the exhaust valve)

[Slow Ride]

OOPs typed it wrong EOIC is what I meant to say.

Could the motor be hurt from the valve spring and old roller rocker being junked? I am not sure if anything fell into the bottom end. I still have good oil pressure though, but not as good as it used to be. Could the fact that I was using the Dart heads with WAY to stiff valve springs be the cause of the noise? Are my pushrods too short? I measured the installed height to be 1.825 +/- .005 this seems to be .125 taller than a stock valve right? I was having contact on the old Summit rockers with the valve side of the rocker body hitting the polylock, but that was with the Dart heads, so I don't know if they are still doing this with the new heads. I will pull the valve covers tomorrow to see if I am having the contact now, but I didn't see any while adjusting the valve train. Could the timing chain be the problem? It is a Cloyes double roller.

I want to get this right, so I can justify making it look half way decent.

[1SLO5.0]

First off make sure the rockers aren't hitting the retainers!!! You will drop valves really quick if they are.

EOIC is not the proper way, if I am assuming the initials as exhaust open intake closed. It is very important that the exhaust is STARTING to open and the intake is STARTING to close. Makes a big difference as to where the lifters are on the cam lobes.

[Slow Ride]

Yes that is how I did it. I have teh article on how to do it memorized because I've had to do them like 10 times this summer alone. I should have a solid cam with how many times I have to adjust my valves.

[1SLO5.0]

Isn't that the truth. I love it when people say that hydraulic cams are maintenence free. ☺☺☺☺ing idiots!!! I would take a solid roller with stud girdles over a hydraulic junk any day.

[TuffEnuff]

me too!!!

[FURO RACECRAFT]

me 3

[slobby]

how bout' a hydraulic roller

[1SLO5.0]

anything hydraulic is junk........I repeat JUNK! If it isn't a solid roller, it isn't shit!

[nos2go]

are they too loose yet, try a full turn, are you using poly locks? Or if your cheap I think the self locking nuts will work for a few adjustments. Its messy but pull the valve cover and see whats going on, while its running.

[Slow Ride]

A full turn makes them hang open and backfire through the intake. Yes I am using the polylocks that came with the Harland Sharpe roller rockers. I ran it with the valve covers of to make sure I had the lifters pumped up and oil was getting to the rocker arms. I had oil on the fenders just at idle so there is plenty of lubrication.

[Slow Ride]

I got everything adjusted and it runs pretty good at startup and driving around it stays pretty cool. After letting it idle for a while the valvetrain noise comes back, very slightly, maybe I have some lifters that bleed down? It also gets hot after letting it sit and idle for about 5 minutes. I took it out around the 'hood and it ran about 160-170, but I came back to check for leaks and noises and it got up to 225 and I shut it down. I am happy with the way it runs somewhat, I still need to do some tuning. It stumbles a bit off idle still, and didn't want to start for shit in the cool weather.

[1SLO5.0]

What brand lifters are you running? Rhoades, Crane and Comp make variable lifters that bleed down at low rpms. That makes them tick a bit at idle. The over heating at idle issue points toward the cooling fan. Could be as simple as a shroud problem or fan that doesn't pull enough air. Or an electric fan that is set up wrong. Pushing when it should be pulling or vice versa. Does the temp fluctuate if you hold it around 3000 rpm when you are stopped? Could be air in the system too. The stumbling off idle is most likely carburetor adjustments.

[Stud]

Maybe Red could swing by and help you out.

[Jim]

this may sound stupid, but is the fan moving air in the right direction?