header Q's

[bm87ta]

Going to be installing my first set of headers this winter and after some researching I hear alot of the bolts backing out due to vibration. I've been looking at locking header bolts and wondering if these will do the job, Spectre pn# 4668, basically a safety wired bolt. I not sure on the quality of this brand. Ive looked at the stage 8 and percys stuff and am not sure if the benifits justify the cost. Any input?

Also wondering what brand header paint is recommended.

Thanks much!

[Greg86z28]

Off topic, but you own a thirdgen right? What type of headers are you installing?

[4cfed]

i hade aproblem with the colector bolts lossening up and faling out on my cutlass.. this was the solution for it.. copper high temp rvt on the gaskets, AND copper rtv on the bolts.. thread it together and let it sit. or just spend the money on the locking ones

[bm87ta]

Off topic, but you own a thirdgen right? What type of headers are you installing?

Yes, got an 87 TA, I got a set off thirdgen unknown brand but look like hedman shorties. They have a decent flange on them(1/4") and are fairly straight. I found a set of stage 8's on ebay real cheap that would require being chopped down an 1" and then will work.

[1SLO5.0]

The only time I can remember having trouble with header bolts loosening up is many many years ago when I tried using cheap headers. I haven't had header bolts loosen up since then. I think if the flange of the header is thick you won't have any issues. I never do any special tricks with gaskets and I don't use special bolts either.

[Mike427]

For header paint I use DEI brand they stock it at our local Advanced Auto and it hold up really good.

[bm87ta]

What I am looking at on ebay is 3/8-16 x 2.25, at most I only need a inch long, easily done with a chop saw and a belt sander. They are $25 with free shipping. I figure that would be worth it then since new bolts would run me about $10 less.

What is required for preping the headers for paint? Is a wire wheel enough or is actual sanding required?

Thanks for all the replies!:thumbs_up
KeithO

[1SLO5.0]

What I am looking at on ebay is 3/8-16 x 2.25, at most I only need a inch long, easily done with a chop saw and a belt sander. They are $25 with free shipping. I figure that would be worth it then since new bolts would run me about $10 less.

What is required for preping the headers for paint? Is a wire wheel enough or is actual sanding required?

Thanks for all the replies!:thumbs_up
KeithO

That sounds like alot of work just to save $10.

[T-Bagger]

it doesnt matter what you paint them with it all sux and comes off just about instantlly and as far as bolts loosening up it happens all the time unless you hardly drive the car i tighten up headers atleast 3-4 times a summer what happens is your gasket starts to smoosh or flatten out and there for bolts loosen

[Greg86z28]

it doesnt matter what you paint them with it all sux and comes off just about instantlly and as far as bolts loosening up it happens all the time unless you hardly drive the car i tighten up headers atleast 3-4 times a summer what happens is your gasket starts to smoosh or flatten out and there for bolts loosen

That's exactly what I would say.

That paint will come off and you just have to check the bolts once and awhile. It's never a bad thing to have to pop your hood to do that. It allows you to check everything else out while your doing that. Make sure everything looks tip top.

[96capricemgr]

As said above, bolts don't back out till they lose torque from gasket compression, retighten te bolts as the gaskets compress with heat cycles and all you need is cheap bolts.

[Mike427]

I only re torque bolts once also and they never loosen up again. I have had good luck with paint sticking to, I have extreme exhaust temps. and paint never flakes or falls off.

[kamu]

I only re torque bolts once also and they never loosen up again. I have had good luck with paint sticking to, I have extreme exhaust temps. and paint never flakes or falls off.

x2 I re torque with the engine warm.

[96capricemgr]

Really is dependant on the gaskets being used. I have used cheap gaskets and seem they need several retorques, but Earl's Pressure master since you are only crushing small areas around the port you can pretty much just tighten till you hit the metal frame and when you check them they will be tight. They should still be checked though.

[T-Bagger]

ive tried the "Paper" header gaskets, copper,and the aluminum,ive tried soaking the paper gaskets in water overnite,painting them with silver paint, and i have found that the stock exaust manifold gaskets work the best metal on one side and paper on the other works the best for me and if you snip the bottom of the bolt holes out you dont have to take the bolts out to change them just loosen and change and for collecter gaskets copper hi temp silicone for life :)